Batura Muztagh is an ultra-peak of 7,388 meters, and a sub-range of the Karakoram Range in Hunza Valley, GB, Pakistan. It is ranked the 70th highest peak in the world and the 31st-highest peak in Pakistan. Ultar Sar is the south-easternmost foremost peak of the Batura Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram range. It lies about ten kilometers northeast of Karimabad, a town on the Karakoram Highway in the Hunza Valley, part of the Gilgit District of Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan. Batura Muztagh has notable features and a climbing history.
Though it is not one of the highest peaks of the Karakoram, Ultar Sar is notable for its exciting rise above the local terrain. Its south flank rises over 17,388 feet above the Hunza River near Karimabad, in only about 10 km of horizontal distance. Combined with its strategic position at the end of the Batura Muztagh, with the Hunza River bending around it, this makes Ultar a visually striking peak.
Ultar Sar also gained fame in the 1990s as supposedly the world’s highest unclimbed independent peak. This was improper, as Gangkhar Puensum in Bhutan is higher, and remains unclimbed in 2007. Also, two other higher peaks are also reputedly unclimbed and of independent stature. However, that perception did increase the appeal of the peak, and a number of expeditions attempted to climb it. Therefore, during the 1980s and 1990s, over 15 expeditions made attempts, resulting in no success but a number of fatalities; the peak proved to be quite tough.
The first two ascents were made in July 1996 by two separate Japanese expeditions, the first from the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club led by Akito Yamazaki, who summited, but unfortunately died on the descent, and the second led by Ken Takahashi. The first summit team consists of Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka, who also died one year later on the adjacent peak, Bublimotin.
They climbed the peak from the southwest in alpine style, doing much of the climbing at night to evade danger from falling rock and ice. After their successful summit, they faced strong storms and went several days without food before returning to basecamp. Nevertheless, Akihito Yamazaki died at the base camp of an internal disease due to the relentless stress of climbing.
