Alpamayo Mountain is one of the most conspicuous peaks in the Cordillera Blanca of the Peruvian Andes. and it is named after the river Allpamayu which it originates. Alpamayo is more remotely located than most other peaks in C. Blanca. It is one of the most stunning ice faces of the Andes, as the hike to the BC requires two to three days.
The Cordillera Blanca comprises over 300 major summits, and more than 20 of these rise over 6,000 meters. The peak is considered by several to be the world’s most striking mountain, an ascent of Alpamayo an achievement valued and recognized by mountaineers the world over. This stunning peak was eventually climbed for the first time in 1957 by a German expedition via the N ridge. However, the peak was not on the map of the Cordillera Blanca from 1932.
But these days, Alpamayo Mountain is the most famous peak and has even been elected one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. It is not difficult, as that inspires the climbers, but it is a wonderful setting among the everlasting snowcaps of the Cordilliera Blanca, 6000 meters above sea level. Unluckily, this makes the peak very widespread and sometimes overfull. It can transform a beautiful five-hour climb, when alone, into a nightmare of 15 hours with all the traffic when crowded.
It is not infrequent to find 10 to 15 parties camping at the col, waiting in line for a chance to scratch the face. Alpamayo is sited in the NE part of the Cordillera Blanca, which means that clouds come up from the Amazon Basin more regularly. Believe 1-2 days a week with less impeccable conditions, fog, and snowfall during the climbing season.
To be honest, if you want to get to this point, then you require little hard work and solid mountaineering and ice climbing abilities. Before reaching the well-known summit face, you must approach over 25 kilometers, place two lower camps, and carry heavy packs filled with climbing equipment and food over 4,000 feet of the moraine, scree, and steep glaciated terrain.
Though there are a number of climbing routes on the Southwest Face, the most common is recognized as the Ferrari or Italian Route. It was opened in 1975 by a group of Italian alpinists led by Casimiro Ferrari. It begins at the top of the highest point of the snow slope, where the bergschrund separates the upper face on the left, and then ascends a steep runnel to the summit ridge.
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